October 13 - The drive South is always brutal, but this time it was slower than
usual. Juliet and I had barely moved into our new house on Saturday
the eighth. On Friday the thirteenth at 3:30 AM I loaded the car for
a Mexican surf trip.
I can usually handle the drive no problem. This time I started seeing double around 5AM so I pulled over to sleep. When I got back on the road an hour later my gas guage read empty and I had no idea when I'd see a station. I tailgated a truck at 50 mph for 40 minutes until I found gas.
As I pulled back on the freeway, these flashing lights descended on me and I shit a brick. Then I realized that Rich & Co. had randomly found me in the middle of the central valley. We stopped at Denny's for breakfast and the waitress took forever. But I got to meet Michael and Morgan. We finally hit the road and arrived San Clemente just at noon.
We met up with Sunde and Britty in San Clemente, stoked to go surfing.
We stopped at Ralph's for supplies. Rich was totally on it.
Morgan was totally on his sandwich.
Britty was totally on.
So was Sunde.
We hit the road and drove right into traffic. Yeah!
Now departing San Diego...
What's this ahead?!?
The coast had been developed quite a bit since my last visit. This is Blinky Jesus. He has a light on his head so that airplanes won't hit it.
We finally arrived at out destination. After 14 hours on the road there was only one thing to do...
We chose a little break on the North side because it was Friday and the usual reef was packed. Scored nipple-high waves, inconsistant but fun, as the sun set purple. On the horizon, Blinky Jesus watched us surf into the twilight.
October 14 - We woke up to low tides and a very crowded reef. We would never see anyone on this reef ten years ago. This morning there are 25 - 30.
Not to worry - we know a spot nearby.
Not thumping - waist to shoulder high and consistent. No crowds. Britty is stoked.
So is Sunde.
Morgan just brought shortboards, though.
The rest of us scrambled to get out there.
We had one of those 3 1/2 hour super sessions. Consistent, glassy waves and only us six out. We were actually glad to see the wind when it finally came up because we were starving for a second breakfast.
That night Rich broiled some perfect pork tenderloin and made mango salsa and fried plantains. Britty broiled a flank steak and veggies. We fried torillas in oil and melted queso fresca on top. It was very good.
October 15 - We returned to our spot the next morning but had to help ourselves to the gate because the guard was taking a shower in his penthouse apartment. His house is 8' x 8', but it appears to have a shower in addition to DirectTV.
We again found fun conditions. The swell had dropped a bit and we had to wait out some lulls. But we stayed in the water for 3+ hours because it was glassy and uncrowded and we were getting wave after wave.
Actually, Morgan went in early because his shortboard wasn't working and he ran down Rich's battery watching movies on the ipod with the car doors all open. Rich's mouth said he didn't care but his body language told a different story.
Michael thought it was funny.
So did Morgan.
And Britty, too.
We took off to find jumper cables, but came back with a car battery that the security guard pulled out of his car for us. It would have been impolite to turn down such an offer. Rich didn't think it was a good idea.
"You guys are assholes."
Morgan thought it was funny.
Do did Michael.
Okay - I guess it is funny...
Somehow the six of us were able to install the security guard's battery into Rich's car.
And the car kept running as we removed the guard's battery and replaced Rich's burnt-out battery.
Shortly after that I ran out of batteries for my camera. I couldn't find the charger in the 10 million boxes of crap that were filling our new house. So that's where the pictures end.
We lazed around in the afternoon and got lobster for dinner in Puerto Nuevo that night.
October 16 - On Monday morning everyone had left but us and we had the main reef all to ourselves. Over the years I've had more fun at this spot than any other on earth. After the takeoff zone it forms a sick, twisting little right-hand wall. It was making occasional little barrels over shallow cobblestones, but I've seen it break in the 15' range. We had it at just under head high for another 3 hour super session.
October 17 - The tide was too low in the morning and the wind was up so we decided to bail across the border ASAP. We hit San Clemente at 9:30 AM and caught Tressles in uncrowded but very sloppy conditions. Still, sloppy Tressles is better than sloppy anywhere else.
My leash broke on my last ride and my board headed toward the low-tide cobblestones. Michael had just come in and he made a heroic dive for my board. To no avail. The nose got smashed.
Rich dropped me at my car and took off before I noticed that I had lost my key somewhere in Mexico. I had to wait for a locksmith. It was a long ride home, tired and stoked. It always is.